Circolo Golf Villa d'Este

The verdict

Villa d'Este is proof that great golf has nothing to do with length. Opened in 1926 to a design by Peter Gannon, it occupies a tight, hilly site in the Brianza woods above the little Lake Montorfano, half an hour from the grand hotels of Como, and a century on it remains a benchmark for classic continental golf. The card reads par 69 and about 5,760 meters, roughly 6,300 yards, numbers that flatter no one and intimidate fewer, until you actually play it.

Because what Gannon built on this awkward, sloping ground is a masterclass in defense by design. The fairways are framed by mature chestnut, ash and pine, the greens are small and cleverly sited, often perched or angled, and the bunkering is deep and exactly placed. The course is celebrated above all for its half dozen par 3s, only one of which plays under 180 yards, a set so good that architects and tour players cite them as among the finest collections in Europe. It is exclusive and traditional, with a handicap certificate required, but for the traveling golfer who values shotmaking and atmosphere over yardage, a round here is one of the great pleasures of Italian golf.

The holes worth the trip

The genius of Villa d'Este is in its par 3s. There are six of them, an unusually high number, and only one plays under 180 yards, so far from being respite holes they are the backbone of the round. Each asks a different long iron or hybrid to a small green guarded by trees, slopes and deep bunkers, with the hillside making club selection a guessing game and a slightly missed shot a near certain dropped stroke. Play these six well and you have shot a good score; play them poorly and the par 69 bites hard.

The par 4s and par 5s thread through the woods on the sloping ground, demanding placement off the tee rather than power, because the corridors are narrow and the angles into the greens matter enormously. Run offs and steep faces around the putting surfaces mean the recovery game is constantly in use, and the greens themselves, small and subtly contoured, ask for a confident, well struck putter. There is no respite, no easy stretch where the mind can wander.

Add the setting, the cool of the chestnut woods, the glimpses of the lake, the unmistakable atmosphere of a club that has barely changed in a century, and you have a round that lingers. It is not a course you overpower; it is one you solve, and the solving is the joy of it. Few courses of its modest length reward repeated play so generously.

Where to stay nearby

The obvious indulgence is to base yourself on Lake Como, where the grand lakeside hotels of Como, Cernobbio and Bellagio put you within easy reach of the course and surround the golf with some of the most beautiful scenery in Italy. For a simpler trip, the city of Como itself offers a good choice of hotels a short drive from the first tee.

Villa d'Este pairs naturally with the other historic clubs of the north for a wider Italy golf trip, combining lake country golf with the cultural pull of Milan and the lakes.

Looking for a base? See our recommended hotels near Lake Como.